Vernal Equinox on Borobudur – The Expedition

The Waluku (Orion) Above the Borobudur

Borobudur, the name is well known as the Buddhist monument in Indonesian. It is one of world heritage that during the decade of restoraration (between 1973-1983) involved twenty-eight countries, and in 1991 included into the World Heritage by the UNESCO. So many aspects had been studied from this monument, from the spiritual, philosophycal, architectural, and so on, but what about the astronomy? One may argue that Borobudur has nothing to do with astronomy, but as long as no strong arguments to support the lemma, it might be that the opposite can be true; regardless, the relation should be testable.

Recently, during the Vernal Equinox, i was joining the Borobudur expedition with some fellows from astronomy department, ITB. Because of Borobudur is in the central Java, so it took 9 hours land traveled from Bandung, in West Java, well, it was an exciting expedition for us. The main purpose of this expedition is on Irma Hariawang‘s thesis on archeo-astronomy, to figure out the relations between Borobudur and astronomy. And the astronomy-related activities are measuring the Sun on its path in the sky during the VE. For the detail on astronomy, i think it would be prefereable, if we have to wait for Irma’s full report in due time. Instead, i just want to share little things that i have learned during the visit.

Borobudur in Red

A Visit to The Sacred Sanctuary

Borobudur was probably built between the 8th and 9th centuries, and after awhile disappeared from the existence, deep beneath the layers of ash because of volcanic eruption and then abandoned by the people around a middle age. There is a study that suggests Borobudur was abandoned following the fourteenth century decline of Buddhist and Hindu kingdoms in Java.

The Borobudur should wait until the 19th centuries when Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, which during that period of time appointed as the British ruler in Java, and on 1814 informed by the native about an abandoned temple somewhere in the jungle, so for the first time, the world acknowledge about its existence. And since that time, there were numerous restoration project to preserve the Borobudur, up until this time.

There is still mystery surrounding the Borobudur, what is the exact purpose of Borobudur? If that is for religious purpose, yes, it is, indeed. One theory is the Borobudur is related to Buddhism cosmology, a Mandala, and the building represents the “three worlds’ of Buddhism cosmology, started as the ‘world of desire’ (Kāmadhātu) on the base level, then the ‘world of form’ (Rupadhatu), the the ‘world without form’ (Arupadhatu) on top. But, is there something else?

As with other ancient civilizations, the forms often have metaphorical symbols, like the square shape and all the attributes in the Rupadhatu, changed into the plain circular platforms in Arupadhatu, speak about the phylosophycal of changing the world in Buddhism, as a pilgrim journeys from below, through a system of stairways and corridors with about 1500s narrative relief panels on the wall and the balustrades, finally reach the top level, in the world without, and we found no figurative panels at all, instead we will find Stupas there. But, do the forms & alignment of the Stupas tell something that related to the sky? That is the very question that we want to answer from our expeditions.

Waiting for the Sun

The Misty Temple

The Rising Sun

The Stones that Tell a Tale

The Borobudur already stands against the test of time, for thousand years, and since the restoration, the people want the Borobudur to endure for another thousand years; assembled by the stones, carved & devised to the complex shape of the temple, and the stones already face the challenge of the nature, the changing pattern of climate, buried beneath the ashes, covered by the growing jungle, but the Borobudur still endures. With the help of human understanding on scinece & technology, we can preserve the complex from eroding nature, but the more imminent threat came also came from human race. How can the Borobudur endure for another thousand years, if it has to be degraded by the vandalism?

The Broken Relief

All in all, the Borobudur is not only about the monument that already stands for generations, not only as a testimony of the ancient; but the Borobudur is like the any other pathways of humanity, always demand for continuity. Imho, Borobudur and astronomy meet in a point, where humanity on the way for the endeavor to go beyond, to explore and challenge the unknown, and for the betterment for humanity.

To quote Professor Soekmono, the Indonesian archaeologist who directed the Borobudur Restoration Project, in his own words:

“Borobudur has resumed its old historical role as a place of learning, dedication and training. We might even conclude that the builders of the monument hoped and planned for such continuity. An excellent training program, either for the pilgrim-devotee or for the field technician, is always based on a wish, a fervent wish, that the trainee will achieve what is projected. For the ardent Buddhist it is the Highest Wisdom that leads to the Ultimate salvation, and for the technician the highest degree of expertise that leads to the appropriate fulfillment of his duty. In both cases, Candi Borobudur is the embodiment of such a deeply felt wish. It is a prayer in stone.”

PS, another tidbits:
For the youtube creation, can be look in here.
And for the album collections, are on my facebook:
Vernal Equinox in Borobudur – The Expedition – pt1 – The Candi
Vernal Equinox in Borobudur – The Expedition – pt2 – Malioboro